Modifying Smarthome 2000STW in
two ways Lamp Module 220V

Credits: Thierry PARENT on his web page
 

 
Suggested transformation relies on the well known "common rules" to adapt a 110V original module to one operating at 220V.
  1.  Take half the value of the original capacitor plugged on the main line and rated, at least, 630V (the value stamped on condensator are for CC, operating in AC require at least twice the voltage).
  2.  Take double value and Watts for resistors.
  3. Replace existing MOV (also named VARISTOR) with 250V.

As for all modifications, take care of the fact that you are working on "line voltage 220V". 
Don't try to plug your work until you closed the box and screwed it. 

This page is for information only, all the modifications that you perform on the original module are AT YOUR OWN RISKS.
 

Smarthome 2000 STW Functionality

Two ways communication

 I discovered on newsgroups so many people complaining about the fact that common X10 devices are one-way (receive only), that it should be the "up to end" functionality.

At my personal point of view, two ways communication are not critical. X10 PLC communication brandwidth is too limited to base all command on a systematic request/check good execution sequence.

Principle : when a controller send a X10 REQUEST command to the Lamp Module, Lamp Module replies the active status (ON-OFF) and/or Bright level (two Hexa Digits)

Preset dimming (32 levels)

 32 levels of preset brightness could be requested in one command (compliant with PCS mode and supported by the Ocelot).

Requested level will be reached in "one shot" without requiring an initial "full on" before dimming. 

Standard Dim and Bright command are still interpreted but with smallest steps (each command trigger a 3% level change in place of original 12%)

Default ON level

 You can define a maximum "memorized" brightness level when the module receive an ON command.

The main application is limiting the "maximum brightness (and power consumption) of your lighting (300W halogen lamp could be limited to a "user defined" high level of 150W for example).

Sending an ALL LIGHT ON or Bright command will overide the memorized level until next ON command.

Ramp effect

 Ramp effect consist of reaching the full bright level progressively (based on user defined speed ratio).
In other words, from an OFF state, receiving a ON command will increase step by step the brighting until reaching the full brightness level. User defined speed could vary from 0 (straight OFF/ON) to 9 minutes.

Scene group

 Each lamp module accept two X10 addresses. The first is used as primary (like wheelcodes on all other X10 modules).

The second gives the ability to group several modules under the same X10 address (same as defining standard lamp module under the same House/Unit). This second address own it's own Ramp effect speed.

Local control

 If you keep an electric switch to manually light on your lamp, the lamp module is able to detect it and will automatically become ON. As a two ways module, an Address / ON command will be send to advertise its change state. The same functionality is provided if you switch manually off your light (address / OFF will be sent), but obviously, you will be unable to switch back the lamp ON by sending a X10 command.
 

Blasted bulb detection

 Directly related to the previous functionality, if the bulb blast, the module will interpret it as a manual switch OFF (and therefore send automatically the Address / OFF command).

Resume after power lost

 If the module lost the main power during operating (e.g. unplugging it), when power will be restored, the module will come back to the previous state / brightness level.

Known limitations

Local control

 It's hard to say, but local control is a little bit tricky (one of my biggest disapointment).

What does it mean ?
As written in the specs, local control works only with filament bulb (halogen included) with a minimum load of 25 Watts

It doesn't mean that module is not able to control other appliances if you disable local control. But local control will not work in the case of fluorescent tubes and bulbs, low voltage halogenes (either true or electronical transformers), inductive load and so on...

Maximum load

 		It's true that the specs say : 400 Watts. It's also true that electronic design (and especially used Triac) support this load. I'm maybe a little bit too conservative,but use it in 300 Watts (or less).

Take care of the fact that the module doesn't limit by itself the maximum load (no fuse, no protection) involving a risk of "blasting the triac" at least, fire at most.

Two ways communication

 Lamp module acting as a transmitter, following limitations exist :
1. The X10 signals are not propagated on multiple phases installation (triphases for example). Main reason is the fact that module is designed for 60 Hz frequency and EU is using   50Hz. Only one way to fix this, installing a coupler/repeater between the phases

2. Weak signal. Maybe due to the modification, the transmitted signal is around 3V (european CM11 is around 2.5 and most efficient sender 5V). Don't forget that lamp modules could be far away of your elctrical distribution box meaning a lot of cable length and interconnection before reaching the expected device or controller. Coupler repeater should also improve this situation.

Ramp effect

 It's really a great effect to raise the light progressively and it create a cosy ambiance BUT, if you are not controlling "filament bulb" device, disable it. It could induce a lot of problems especially if the Local control is also activated.

Reliability

 I never had false triggering like with my old LM465 modules, BUT sometimes, for unknown reason, local control doesn't want to work anymore until you reprogram it. It doesn't mean that the original module electronic is poorly designed, it could be a "side effect" of the 220V modification.

In the same trend, ramp effect on scene adress is not always triggered at the first ON command (maybe this module suffered too much of my several adaptation attempts ?).

They don't like "noisy" installation. If you discover the LED blinking continuously, don't try to plug it at this place. There are electrical noises, or signal level is too low. Be carefull that leaving the module plugged in a non reliable condition could induce the sending of a lot X10 signals, the module trying to communicate it's unexpected status.

I'm not enough skilled to explain why, but wiring is important. I know, we are working in alternative current which means that the polarity doesn't matter (especially in EU where ground earth is strictly segregated by using a dedicate wire (yellow/green)). BUT, module are more reliable when  Neutral / Line match.

In all the cases these module are really "sturdy" and accepted without "blasting" (4 survivors on a total of 5) all my experiments (including the worst one like putting two condensator in parallel increasing drastically the intensity dissipated by the "courageous" Zener diodes).


Required parts
My favorite capacitors are hard to find (Philips C368 400V) and doesn't match with EU regulatory requirements (capacitor plugged on main line should be X2).

You can always try to substitute it by WIMA MKS or MKP capacitors which are good enough if you select the one rated for 630V or upper (1000V).

Resistor is a vitrified rated at 3 Watts (original is a 2 Watts). It's true that this model has inductive caracteristics but being on power supply, it doesn't have any impacts. 

Component

Old value
(110V)

New value
(220V)
R1 27 ohms 2W 68 ohms 3W
C1 1,5 micro Farad, 250V 680 nano Farad, 630V
C4 220 nano Farad, 250V 100 nano Farad 630V
C8 47 nano Farad, 250V 22 nano Farad 630V
Mov 130V 250V

Step by step modification
There are only 5 parts to exchange. BUT take care of the fact that we are unsoldering /soldering on a two layers PCB which is by definition more fragile :
  1. Don't use iron solder temp above 300°C
  2. Never drill the holes to remove extra solder
  3. Never force when pluggin or unpluggin the components.

 

Prepare the required components

Should look like this 
Unscrew the screws at each corner
Unscrew all the inner screws (at each PCB edge and holding the plug).

Take care that removing the PCB requires to slide it gently on the left to extract the LED and microswitch.

Sometime, it is required to remove hotglue cement around the LED and switch.

You are ready to unsolder the not required parts
All the components are located at the black and white wires side and could be easilly reached when removing the heatsink (unscrew the bolt on the triac and slide it from the PCB)
At the end of the work, you should have the following "in hand".

Cut the two white plastic wire enclosure to obtain a "flat output" plate.
PCB should like this one
Replace one by one each missing components on the basis of Required Parts matching.

Some leg of the condensator should be adapted to match pin holes. Just fold it or solder additional wire to extend them taking care to not leaving it touching any other tracks or contacts.

Side view of finished work
Take really care of the right side components.

The legs of resistor 680nF, 100nF and LINE wire are very close BUT should absolutly be never in contact (except if you are enjoying Home Made Fireworks ;-).

Insulate the resistor leg will be more carefull.

Solding the LINE wire at the opposite side also help.

Drill a hole at each side of the box. line cord extender should just fit inside (typically 8 mm).
Split a line cord extender in two 
Solder the wires without forgeting to pass prior the wire through the holes.

Like already explained take care of the polarity (blue is NEUTRAL, brown is LINE, yellow green is GROUND EARTH).

To avoid shortcircut, solder the brown power feeding at the bottom side folded in the illustrated direction (to avoid reassembly problem).

Don't forget to solder "wire to wire" earth ground and to insulate it.

The wire will pass above the components and under the heatsink.

Final result should look like this

(don't forget to screw back the Triac bolt).

A nice improvement is to strip each line cord to avoid pulling the wire outside the box (and therefore exposing to a "big" shortcircut).

Verify that the PCB and box are clean (without any solder drops or thin copper wires)

Screw the PCB and box.

Ready to Test !!!!

Plug it in the outlet, if you are successfull, the led should blink.

 

Damned, it worked well last time. I don't understand why !!!!

Check the "Setting" section below

Programing settings
The provided user's manual explains in more details all the available options.

You will find below just a summary and some small tricks.

They are two ways to define settings :

  • By switch : you press the SET button and submit one or more X10 command to setup one of the functionality.
  • By software : you send "row X10 command" sequence 

In all the case, avoid to submit the expected X10 command with a remote control (only successfull 20% of the time). Use the CM11 computer interface or a mini controller.

On the basis of my experience, my favorite stay the Powerlinc II 1132B which could be used as a TW523 replacement or RS-232 X10 controller.

Whatever programing technique you use, always plug a light on it. When the lamp is blinking, it means that the Lamp Module accepted the last programing sequence.
Mini controller Powerlinc 1132B

By switch

Defining main House / Unit address Press the SET button during 5 second.

LED will blink. During blinking time send through X10 PLC the House / Unit that you want to assign to the unit (ex : B5) followed by ON or OFF

  • ON means that local control will be enabled
  • OFF means that local control will be disabled
Setting default ON level Send ON command to the Lamp Module.

Use DIM key to choose the maximum expected brightness.

Tap (could be a long tap) one time on the SET switch (light should blink as acknowledgement).
Setting Ramp effect Send ON command to the Lamp Module

Use DIM key to decrease brightness (lower britghness mean slow ramp speed).

Tap twice the SET switch.

By software

Take care that only devices able to send only House/Unit code NOT followed by any ON or OFF command could be used for programing settings (like 1132B)
Defining alternate address 
(secondary, used for scene group).		 Initiate programming mode (also named "clear sequence") :

O16 N16 M16 P16 M16

Send House / Unit of the module to program followed by ON

Send :

M16 N16 O16 P16

Send House / Unit of the chosen alternate address

Lamp will blink to confirm that setting is active
See user's manual for additional setup sequence.

Repair center
Don't expect a Miracle. It's a sophisticated electronic with a lot of CMS components with no labelled values stamped on them.

The most common problem is : YOU DIDN'T FOLLOWED MY ADVICE an worked inside with the module plugged on main voltage (or just unplugged).

They are big condensator meaning that an "extra small shortcircut" could happen if you make an unwillingly contact between tracks or components.
If it happens and you watch a electric arc, in 99% of the case, one or more zener diodes are blasted.

No blinking LED (power supply OUT)

The first set of zener diode are labelled D3, D4. 
They are 12V, 1.3W

The second key zener diode is D5
Replace it with a 5.2V, 1.3W

Best, is to fold the legs to design a U shape. Soldering the end of the leg gives an empty space under the diode improving  cooling zener surface (in place of sticking it on the PCB surface).

Pencil on the picture highlight the D5 place (D3,D4 are just behind).

No local control

The C8 condensator could be faulty. If so, replace it with same value but higher voltage (1000V for example).

Not  able to program settings

Follow the reset procedure which consist of :

  1. Unplug the module

  2. Press the SET button (and hold it pressed)

  3. Plug the module

  4. Keep pressed the SET button for 3 seconds at least

  5. Release the button.

  6. Wait until the light is powered ON meaning that the reset sequence is completed (all previous setup including base address are lost).