Credits: based on a description from Hans Aterjo. Source
no longer available on web
Image of modification schematic (100k)
Change C1 from 0.68uF/250V to
Change R1 from 100Ohm/0.5W to 220Ohm/1W.
Change R2 from 330K/0.25W to 330k/0.5W
(larger value also possible)
Change R5 from 330k/0.25W to 330k/0.5W.
Change C11 from 10nF/250V to 10nF/400V. This
is the capacitor connected in parallel with a 2.2k resistor.
Change the 130V MOV to a 250V MOV. If you use
240V use a 270V MOV.
Add a resistor of 100Ohm/2W in series with
one of the wires for the coil of the cam relay. Fix this resistor good and be sure is does
not touch anything, it can become very hot.
post by Dr. Ed Cheung
of modification schematic
Normally appliance modules turn on and stay on in response to an ON command, and
off in response to an OFF command. In response to an ON command appliance modules modified
as described in this section will pulse on then off twice, returning to the off position.
the module should be normally ON, turn it on before starting this modification. If it
should be normally OFF, turn it off before the modification.
- Locate 330K resistor
below the IC chip, between output pins and remove it.
- The module clicks twice
because each X10 command is issued twice. Thus the two commands causes two on/off cycles.
If you would like the module to be normally on, make sure that the module was left on
before you start the mod.
When used in conjunction with the appliance
module mod to make it act as a momentary device, the following mod will
basically turn it into a high or low voltage relay module (i.e. a High-voltage
capable, yet over simplified PowerFlash module). Please feel free to clean up or
edit this if you decide to post on your site.
1. Disassemble the unit.
2. Preform the
momentary operation as described on your website.
3. De-solder the connection from the relay COMMON
input (at top near COMMON blade), snip of the lead the went to the board and
cover with electrical tape to ensure that it is electrically isolated from 120V.
4. De-solder the black wire that runs from the
HOT plug to the HOT blade and re-attach this to the top section of the relay
near the contact pad.
5. De-solder and remove the two plug connections
from the bottom of the board and attach two wires to the solder pads.
6. Reassemble the unit, running the two attached
wires out the plug holes at the bottom.
This should give you a momentary SHORT across the
two wires when the relay is ON, and an OPEN when the relay is OFF. This can be
made normally OPEN, or NORMALLY shorted, depending on the last known state when
the unit was modified for momentary operation.
This can also provide a latched path by not doing
the momentary mod.
of modification schematic
Source: Post by S. M. Bloom
This modification is a must for appliance module
turned wall-switch modules that control a non-dimming device, such as florescent light.
This modification will add a local control in addition to the remote control mode.
Make sure module is off, unplug it and then
take cover off.
Locate jumper near the "top" of the
board and right beside the left side of the IC.
Replace by a momentary contact push button
Here's a cheap way to create
an inexpensive in-line appliance and lamp modules:
that it was relatively easy to open the cases, remove the metal power plug
prongs and solder suitably heavy wires at both the POWER INPUT terminals and the
POWER OUTPUT terminals.
I used a
drill of approximate 1/8" diameter to create suitable exit holes from the
modules. Leaving about 6" of high quality stranded wire emerging from the module
cases, one can easily create very handy in-line modules at 'dirt cheap' prices,
compared to the Leviton or other alternatives.
little epoxy resin, one can seal any extraneous openings from the original power
prongs and, with just a dab, seal the new exiting wires firmly in place.
Tom Laureanno's X-10 Home Automation
Before you start: there's a report
that this mod doesn't work on the newer appliance modules - so use this mod only for
the older 486 modules. For the 6375, check
Local current sensing is the
feature that automatically turns the appliance module on when the device connected to it
is turned on. Its based on current sensing circuitry that senses how much current is drawn
by the load. The following modification disables the current sensing circuitry:
Disabling local control on the newer appliance module
- Disassemble the module
- Locate the small jumper close to the large blue capacitor (see
- Snip the jumper
Range and Reliability
Credits: )) Sonic ((
This modification requires testing and tweaking
the module while it is connected to the mains powerline. This information is provided AS-IS, for informational purposes only, with no warranty whatsoever.
It is your responsibility to know and understand common safety procedures,
especially those involving electricity at potentially dangerous power levels. Proceed at
your own risk.
Start by reading the general alignment procedure
- Disassemble the module . It is O.K. to either leave the front
cover (with the House and Unit code dials) in place, or remove both covers and work with a
bare PCB. Attach a very short extension cord, if needed, to allow for adjustment while
module is powered.
- Move the module to the location where it will be used. Bring
along oscilloscope, isolation transformer (if needed), and previously calibrated
controller of known correct frequency.
- Connect the controller to a separate circuit, or at least an
electrically distant outlet on the same circuit, via some means of attenuating its 120kHz
output (as discussed in the general alignment principles)
- Connect oscilloscope 10X probe to pin 1 of 78570 IC (i like to
use the 33pF capacitor lead which attaches to pin 1), probe ground to circuit common (the
narrower of the two A.C. prongs, i.e. Hot). Oscilloscope
must be isolated from the A.C. powerline, since module must be directly connected for best
results. Avoid touching oscilloscope while module is powered. I usually
start with 10mV/div (X10=.1V/div actual), and 5Ásec sweep.
- Connect module directly to the A.C. line.
- Key controller to generate a continuous signal (Bright or Dim
achieve this on most controllers so equipped).
- Inspect waveform. If there is clipping, reduce the amplitude
of the signal from the controller until the displayed waveform is sinusoidal.
- Adjust module transformer for maximum 120kHz signal amplitude.
This is likely to be a broad, low-Q peak.
- . Unplug/disconnect all.
- . Reassemble module and test.