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The only improvement is, maybe, the chosen
SSR (Solid State Relay) :
SHARP S116S02 for 110V or
S216S02 for 220V, which require less current/voltage to be triggered and
accepts higher load (16Amp maximum with adequate heat sink). These characteristics permit to preserve the local control components and functionality. SHARP S216S02 was successfully tested on 220V installation. At this stage, I couldn't confirm that S116S02 work well on 110V (all feedback are welcome). Like for all modifications, take care of the
fact that you are working on "line voltage 120V/220V". Don't try to plug
your work until you closed the box and screwed it. The first part explains how to proceed to modify a lamp module (465) without changing its nominal voltage (110V). The second part, gives more info to convert the silent appliance module in 220V with European plug.
Modification to Silent appliance module |
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Take a standard Lamp Module (LM465).
The one used as sample is not a "true" X10, but the PCB is the same |
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Prepare the required components :
1 x S116S02 (for 110V) or S216S02 (for 220V) S116S02/S216S02 could be purchased at Digikey (for example) |
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| Unscrew the module and remove (unsolder) the Triac screwed on the heat sink |
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To have a better access to the PCB, unsolder
the two wires of the coil (they will be soldered back, later at their
original position).
Put the S116S02/S216S02 on the original heat sink. Screw it with bolt and nut. |
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On the PCB, remove R5 and R10 (close to the
bottom left hedge on the picture)
Before.... |
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| After (not a hard work, almost no difference except at the left bottom edge of the picture). |
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Prepare the 22µF capacitor and solder it at
the place of R5.
This component is polarized. It means that the minus - leg should at internal side. Therefore, + sign should be closest to the edge of the board. |
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| Solder also a red thin wire on the leg of the diode closest to the new capacitor (it will be the + wire to control the SSR). |
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| Result will look like this : |
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Cut one of the resistor wires to build a U
shape.
Solder it at the end. |
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| Prepare the already assembled resistor by soldering a black wire at the other side (black wire will be the minus (-) SSR command) |
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| Solder the "bridge" at the original place of the R10. |
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We have successfully performed the "low
voltage" modification
Now for the main voltage : unsolder the existing thick brown wire at "old" Triac side |
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| Enlarge the existing hole previously used by the Triac. |
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Solder a new wire to the drilled hole.
Connect the SSR using the 4 existing cables. Thin black to the minus (-) terminal Thick brown close to the plug to the first ~
AC terminal |
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| Don't forget to resold the two wires of the coil. |
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Reassemble the plug, it's now ready to use.
On the basis of my knowledge, it works with fluorescent lamp (but fluorescent could blink due to the sensing current required by the local control), motor, lamp, heater,.... (no limitation as far I know). Note, a very important point : S216S02 is designed for a maximum load of 16 Amp WITH an appropriate HEAT SINK. The reused one gives only the ability to hold a maximum of 500W. No components limit the current intensity (no fuse). It means that you could use it with greather load BUT : you will smell the plastic box OR/AND blow the S216-S02. Take care of the RISK of FIRE if you bypass the 500W limit. If you want a 16 amp module, at least,
replace the coil with thick wire (without using a Triac, its added value is
very limited). |
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220v Modification
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Prepare the required parts for the mods :
1 x 220 Ohms resistor (1 watt) |
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| Remove large blue capacitor, MOV and the R1 (100 ohms resistor) closest to the removed capacitor |
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| Solder the new one. Final result should look like this : |
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The easiest way to complete the modification
is to use AC plug adapters like these :
I used some for a very short time. They are very dangerous especially when you have children. To avoid problems, I suggest the following |
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Remove (unsolder) the top and bottow
original US metallic plug
It's a hard work , that's true |
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| Drill holes at each side of the original enclosure. Mill also the bottom of the box to let the wires enter and one at the top (see picture) |
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| Cut a widely available line cord extender |
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| Fit it in the holes. Use stripper to stop the cable (red on the picture) |
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| Solder the earth cables togheter (yellow-green) and reassemble (it will fit, yes, just take care of the cable path. If it doesn't fit, common problem is the wire ends at the soldering side are too long (cut it shorter). |
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| and... here is your new silent appliance module |
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For "connoisseur" only,
the 16 amp version with a "hughe heat" sink (and removed coil which could
not resist to high current).
I tried it with a 2000 W electric heater without problems. |
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