The modification below results in a silent appliance module with the local control function preserved.
Parts list
22 uF 25 volt electrolytic capacitor
1k (brn-blk-red) ohm 1/4 watt resistor
22 ohm (red-red-blk) 1/2 watt resistor
MOC3042. opto isolator
2.8 amp 3AG slow blow fuse with pigtails and heat shrink tubing (optional)
WARNING: This information is provided for educational purposes only. Any modifications to X10 modules are potentially EXTREMELY dangerous. You will void your warranty and invalidate the CSA/UL listings by making modifications. Additionally, there are hazardous voltages present if plugged in with the case open that can cause DEATH BY ELECTROCUTION OR SEVERE BURNS. Miswiring may also result in FIRE or SMALL EXPLOSION. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. I take no responsibility for any untoward consequences of using this information.
| Open the X10 module
as described in the page linked above. Remove the PC board from the
module. Remove the heat sink from the triac (upper left on picture) and
save the mounting hardware. Remove the choke (two green circles) and
remove D7, D11, R5 and R10. The board will look like the picture when
you are done removing the components. You can reuse the 1k resistor (brn-blk-red).
I prefer to use new resistors since I don't have to worry about
destroying the old ones during removal, and since new parts have
longer leads and are easier to work with. The other electronic parts
may be discarded. Note the MOC3042 "dead bug" glued next to the IC
(pin one towards the lower left of the photo). I also found the wiring
easier if I broke off pins 3 and 5 before gluing the optoisolator in
place. |
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| Prepare the 22 uF capacitor and 1k ohm resistor as shown. Twist the positive (+) lead of the capacitor and one lead of the 1k resistor together. Attach a length of hookup wire to both the (+) and (-) sides of the capacitor. Cut the free lead of the resistor and the neg lead of the capacitor to 1/4" and form each onto a hook for connection to the MOC3042. |
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| Next, cut one lead of
a 22 ohn (red-red-blk) 1/2 watt resistor to 1/2" and form a hook. Wrap
the hook around the lead of the 330k (org-org-yel) resistor at the end
shown and solder (white arrow) Place the body of the resistor as shown
(red arrow). |
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| Wire the remainder as
shown. Connect the free end of the 22 ohm resistor you just installed
to pin 6 of the MOC3042. Connect a jumper between pin 4 of the MOC3042.
and the hole that formerly contained the cathode of D11 (next to the
big capacitor). Connect the wire from the positive pole of the new 22
uF capacitor to the hole formerly occupied by R5 nearest to the edge of
the circuit board. Finally connect the lead from the negative pole of
the 22 uF capacitor (pin 2 of the MOC3042) to the hold formerly occupied
by the right side of R10 (the hole with the circle on the silkscreen and
closest to the 330k resistor. |
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| Rather than putting a
jumper in place of the choke, I chose to put a 2.8 A 3AG slow blow fuse
(with pigtails) to enforce the 300 W limit. Wrap the fuse in heat
shrink and dress (route) the leads as shown (or you wont get the case
closed. Reinstall the heatsink after cutting the tab off as shown on
the page linked above. I recommend heat sink compound on the triac when
reinstalling. Reassemble the case, and voila, completely silent
appliance module with local control. |
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